Hiking to Bulnes from Poncebos: A Stunning Village in Spain
Some of the links in this article are affiliate links. I may earn a commission by clicking these links, which helps me create more free travel content for everyone. For more information, check out my cookie policy.
The hikes in Spain are so underrated. And Asturias is one of those regions. Hiking to Bulnes in the Picos de Europa is a rewarding hike, both with views and the experience of such a unique town.
We hiked to Bulnes from the town of Poncebos during our time staying in Las Arenas. It was one of our favorite hikes during our time in Spain!
The trail to this town is called Ruta La Canal del Texu and only took us half a day to complete. Or maybe slightly longer if you decide to have some refreshing beers in town.
There’s a popular funicular that you can take if you’re short on time or simply don’t feel like hiking that day.
We decided to hike to Bulnes to get the full experience but there’s also nothing wrong with taking the funicular.
I’ll go over everything you need to know about Ruta Bulnes, whether you want to hike it like us or take the funicular there.
Hiking to Bulnes from Poncebos: Is it Worth it?
There aren’t that many hikes that I would say aren’t worth it and this isn’t one of them. Hiking to a small village in the mountains sounds like a dream come true to me.
Add the fact that you can have a glass of beer once you reach it makes it totally worth it.
It’s only about 2 miles to Bulnes and then 2 miles back to the trailhead. That’s a small price to pay for an experience for the books.
What Makes This Hike So Special?
Everything about this hike is special. It starts at the trailhead, where you walk over a stunning bridge with an emerald river flowing underneath.
From there, you follow the trail between two large vertical rock faces.
Bulnes is a magical place and it’s something that everyone should experience.
Should You Take the Funicular?
Even though this trail is on the shorter side, it still has sections of a steep incline that can make it more difficult.
If you enjoy hiking, then I would suggest not taking the funicular, as hiking adds so much to the experience.
If you’re short on time but still really want to see Bulnes, then the funicular would be a good choice. No matter how you get there, the experience is still worth having.
There’s another hike in the Picos de Europa that we took a cable car on, called Fuente De. Check this out if you want a hike that combines stunning trails with cable car views!
Ruta de la Canal del Texu (Ruta Bulnes): Things to Know
The actual hike to Bulnes is straightforward but there’s important information you need to know to plan this before you go.
Is the Ruta Bulnes Hike Difficult?
Some sites have this hike rated as hard but I’d put it in the moderate category. Multiple sections of incline make this more of a challenge but overall, it’s a doable hike to complete.
What is Bulnes?
Bulnes is a stunning village located in Asturias. This town is perched between the mountains and used to be accessible only on foot.
There are only a handful of buildings and it takes but a few minutes to walk through them. That’s part of the magic this place brings.
Parking
If you have a rental car already, then you can drive and park at the parking lot next to the funicular. These spots are limited, so it’s advised to show up early.
The same goes for parking on the street. There will be spots to park but they are limited.
Taking the Bus
We hiked during the summer months and decided to take the bus instead. Buses are far more limited in the spring months and driving a car would be the better option.
If you stay in Las Arenas like us, you’ll want to head to this bus stop. The cost is 1.55 Euros each way. Below is the schedule:
- 8:15 AM to 1:00 PM (buses leaving Las Arenas)
- 5:00 PM to 7:00 PM (buses leaving Las Arenas)
There will be a break from buses heading back to Las Arenas between these two times, so be sure to plan ahead.
How Much is the Funicular?
A round-trip ticket on the funicular to Bulnes will cost 22 Euros. During peak season, the funicular runs from 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM.
For more information, you can check out the official website.
What to Pack
You’ll want different types of hiking clothes depending on the time of year that you plan to hike in Asturias.
There are some sections of shade during this hike but also a good portion of it you’ll be in the sun.
Below, I’ll go over my favorite pieces of hiking gear I brought with me on this hike.
Ruta de la Canal del Texu (Ruta Bulnes) Hike Details
| Hike Detail | Info |
|---|---|
| Trail Name | Ruta de la Canal del Texu |
| Location | Parque Nacional Picos de Europa, Asturias, Spain |
| Route Type | Out-and-back |
| Distance | 7.1 km |
| Elevation Gain | 459 m |
| Difficulty | Difficult |
| User Rating | 4.7/5 from 525 reviews |
| Best Time to Visit | March to October |
| Trail Traffic | Usually heavily trafficked |
| Trail Features | Rocky terrain, scrambling, forest, river, views, wildlife, birdwatching, historic interest |
| Dog Friendly | May allow dogs — check local rules before going |
Hike or Funicular: Which Is Better for Most People?
The decision to take the funicular or to hike can be a difficult decision for some. There are benefits to both.
Why I Chose to Hike Instead of Taking the Funicular
This entire website is about going on adventures and hikes, so it should come as no surprise that we decided to hike the trail instead of taking the funicular.
One of the main reasons we chose to hike is that it gives you more of a realization about how crazy cool this town is, which is tucked inside the mountains.
The landscape is stunning and we also told ourselves we were only allowed to have a beer if we finished the hike.
When the Funicular Makes More Sense
The funicular makes more sense when you’re on a time crunch. Bulnes is such a cool town that even if you’re not able to hike the trail, it’s still worth visiting.
My Recommendation If You Only Have Half a Day
If you only have half a day, I’d suggest taking the funicular there and back. This can all change depending on what time you need to be back.
Another good option is parking at the funicular, hiking the trail, and then taking the funicular back to the parking lot. This is only possible if you can start at 10:00 AM.
My Experience
Hiking to Bulnes was one of my favorite experiences while traveling through Spain. It’s so unique that I think it should be on everyone’s bucket list.
Taking the Bus to Poncebos
Our goal was to take the first bus from Las Arenas to Poncebos at 8:15 in the morning. So we woke up early, picked up breakfast and a coffee along the way, and headed to the bus stop.
The bus was only semi-full at this time but I’m sure if we took the later bus, it would be more crowded.
It’s a 10 or so minute drive up the mountains and it was overall a comfortable ride.
Hiking Down into the Narrow Gorge
This hike starts heavy right off the bat. We hiked down into the narrow gorge, crossing a bridge that went over a stunning emerald colored river.
Right after this section, we crossed a bridge that had towering rock faces on both sides. We could see the trailhead lead deep into the mountains and were excited for what was to come.
Following the Trail Along the Vertical Rock Faces
The elevation gain was steady during the middle part of this hike but the beauty of the surrounding area helped make it go by quickly.
There were a few switchbacks about a third of the way in that helped ease some of the gain but shortly after was the most strenuous section.
For 0.3 miles after these switchbacks, the elevation gain increases but after that, it starts to level out more.
We knew after this section that we were essentially on the home stretch.
Arriving at Bulnes
We were so excited when we finally arrived in the town. I’m not exactly sure what time it was at this point but we were both hungry (and thirsty).
When we first arrived, we walked around town for a few minutes and went to get a table at the most popular restaurant in town.
You can’t miss it when you arrive. It’s perched up right alongside the river with tables so close you can hear the river flowing.
So we obviously had to get a few dishes and a cold beer.
After we finished our meal, we set back out on the trail. Heading back was a much easier hike than going there, as we were going on a decline almost the entire way.
Other Things to Know
Where to Stay Near Poncebos:
- Hotel Garganta del Cares: This is a hotel right next to the parking lot of the funicular. If location is huge for you, then this place is worth looking into.
- Hotel Villa de Cabrales (Las Arenas): If you want a central hotel in Las Arenas, this is the perfect hotel for you.
- Hotel Picos de Europa: This is one of the most stunning hotels in Las Arenas and also comes with a breathtaking view.
Other Hikes in the Area
Another popular hike (possibly even more popular than Ruta Bulnes) is Ruta del Cares. This hike starts in a similar area but goes straight up the road into the mountains.
We tried to do this hike earlier but there were fires that only made it possible to go halfway. If you have multiple days in this area, I’d suggest checking it out!
FAQs
How Long Does it Take to Hike to Bulnes?
To complete the out-and-back trail to Bulnes will take around 2-3 hours. This depends on your fitness level and the time of the year that you go.
Can You Visit Bulnes Without Hiking?
Yes, you can visit Bulnes without hiking. There is a funicular that you can take in Poncebos that will cost 22 Euros round-trip.
Can You Hike One-way and Take the Funicular Back?
Yes, you can hike one way and then take the funicular back. It costs almost 18 Euros for a one-way ticket, so you save money if you buy a round-trip ticket in advance.
Is Bulnes Worth Visiting?
Bulnes is a unique small village tucked into the mountains of Spain and is absolutely worth visiting.
Do You Need to Book the Funicular in Advance?
Booking the funicular in advance isn’t mandatory but it is suggested, while also securing your spot during peak season.
Final Thoughts
If you’re looking to hike in Spain, then you can’t miss the Picos de Europa and especially this hike. There are multiple areas to explore in this national park and the hike to Bulnes is one of the coolest I’ve experienced. Spending time in Las Arenas was a good idea as we were able to experience some of Asturias ‘ unique cuisine but still be a short distance away from the National Park.
