Campsite at Paine Grande during the W Trek in Patagonia.

Hiking the W Trek in Patagonia Self-Guided: The Complete Details

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When you think of Patagonia, it’s hard not to imagine the picture of its most famous pristine peaks. Many avid hikers and outdoor enthusiasts dream of one day visiting Chile and Argentina to explore the Patagonia region. One of the most famous hikes in Patagonia is the W Trek.

This is the smaller version of the O-trek, but even though it’s shorter, it still offers the adventure of a lifetime. These hikes are located in the Torres del Paine National Park in Chile.

My dream finally came true in December 2024 when I visited Patagonia for the first time. There were beautiful landscapes everywhere, and I couldn’t stop staring at them.

In this guide, I’ll go over everything you need to know (and there’s a lot) about hiking the W Trek in Patagonia self-guided.

What is the W Trek in Patagonia and Why You Should Hike it

What makes this hike unique is how well the trails are maintained, the excellent refugios, the people, and, of course, the views.

When traveling throughout Patagonia, it’s funny and cool to notice the same people repeatedly. Most people stick to a very similar itinerary.

There are options for individuals who want to camp and have gear, don’t have gear, or want to go all out and sleep in beds.

Where is the W Trek in Patagonia?

The W Trek is a four- to five-day hike in Torres del Paine National Park. Patagonia is located in Chile and Argentina, offering something different.

Most people who plan to visit Torres del Paine National Park stay in Puerto Natales. This town is easily accessible by bus if you’re coming from Calafate, where the famous Minitrekking on Perito Moreno Glacier is done.

We stopped by here shortly on our way south, where we decided to see Penguins in Punta Arenas before returning for the trek!

The trail during the W Trek in Patagonia

How to Get to Torres del Paines National Park

Getting to Torres del Paines National Park is relatively easy. We were one group of the many individuals who got to this park to do the W Trek alone, self-guided.

What does this mean? It means there’s a lot of bus options. I liked using Busbud to find bus times while traveling in Chile and Argentina.

This website didn’t have all the buses possible for every town, but it gave me a good idea of the times.

Bus From Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park

Depending on your path, either East to West or West to East, will determine which bus ticket you need to buy.

No matter what, you’ll stop and get off the bus at Laguna Amarga. This is the Entrance to the park and you’ll have to show your entrance ticket. More on that later.

After finding the bus ticket on Busbud, I always visit the bus company’s website. In this case, it’s Bus Sur.

If you’re starting from West to East like us, you’ll first need a bus ticket from Puerto Natales to Puedeto. When we got to the entrance, we showed our tickets, grabbed our bags, and switched buses.

Our bus driver took a break before taking us another 25 minutes up the road to the Pudeto dock. Keep asking the drivers as everyone seemed confused about what was happening.

If you’re going from East to West, the first ticket you’ll need is one to Laguna Amarga. To find these tickets, go to Bus Sur’s website and type in the destination of Torres del Paine.

In the description will be either Laguna Amarga or Pudeto. You’ll need one of each, but you will determine which you need first and last, depending on where you start.

A side note: YOU MUST PRINT OR SCREENSHOT YOUR TICKETS

Wi-fi is scarce or non-existent inside the park.

Bus Schedule

This might be confusing at first but it’ll all become clear soon. I suggest starting a notes page on your phone with your itinerary and all the needed documents in there.

Below is the bus schedule for Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia.

Puerto Natales to Laguna Amarga & Pudeto
  • 6:50 AM
  • 7:00 AM
  • 7:15 AM
  • 12:00 PM
  • 2:30 PM

Current Prices (one-way): ~12,000 Chilean Pesos

Laguna Amarga to Puerto Natales
  • 11:00 AM
  • 3:00 PM
  • 3:10 PM
  • 8:15 PM
  • 8:20 PM
  • 8:25 PM

Current Prices (one-way): ~12,000 Chilean Pesos

Pudeto to Puerto Natales
  • 10:30 AM
  • 2:10 PM
  • 2:30 PM
  • 7:30 PM
  • 7:35 PM
  • 7:40 PM

Current Prices (one-way): ~12,000 Chilean Pesos

Rental Car

I get it if you don’t want to take a bus and would rather drive yourself! I suggest renting a car outside of Puerto Natales as the prices will be more expensive there.

I’m unsure about driving inside the park and to which miradors are possible, but there’s a parking lot behind the Welcome Center. This is next to Refugio Torre Norte.

The Torres del Paine park entrance when hiking the W Trek in Patagonia

Things to Know When Planning the W Trek in Patagonia

The W Trek in Patagonia is a long hike and Torres del Paine doesn’t make the information easy to find.

Below will be a plethora of extra details you need to complete the self-guided hike of the W Trek!

Overview: My Itinerary (West to East)

Day 1:

  • Take the bus from Puerto Natales to the Park Entrance (Laguna Amarga)
  • Switch buses to go to Puedeto
  • Take the ferry to Paine Grande ($25,000)
  • Hike to Grey (11km) and hike back to Paine Grande (11km)

Day 2:

  • Hike from Paine Grande to Mirador Britanico (13km)
  • From Mirador Britanico, hike to Cuernos (10km)

Day 3:

  • Hike from Cuernos to Chileno

Day 4:

  • Wake up early hike from Chileno to Mirador Torres del Paine
  • After spending time at the mirador, hike down to Torres Central and the Welcome Center
  • Purchase a ticket back to the park entrance ($5,000)
  • Take the bus back to Puerto Natales
our first views of Torres during our W Trek in Patagonia

Things to Bring

Patagonia is known for its huge mood swings of weather, and I wouldn’t change that for the world. It’s what makes this area unique. But it’s a good idea to come prepared.

During the peak season, between December and February, there will be warm, cold, and rainy weather. Here are some things I suggest bringing.

Do I have to Purchase a Camping Spot in Torres Del Paine?

Unfortunately, you can’t simply show up in Torres del Paine and expect to camp for free if you have your own gear. I’ve heard many stories of other travelers not doing their research and showing up with no purchased camping spot.

A few companies own these camping spots on the W Trek in Patagonia.

  • For tents/camping spots/beds at Paine Grande, you must book a spot through Vertice Travel.
  • If you’re looking to stay the night at Cuernos, Torres Central/Norte, or Chileno, you must book through Las Torres.

How Far in Advance to Book?

Hiking in Torres del Paine National Park is one of Chile’s most popular activities. This might seem obvious to some but what isn’t so obvious is how early you must book your reservation.

From experience, my girlfriend and I tried booking in early October for late November. There were spots, but many were limited, and not everything was available in three straight days.

We ended up booking our reservations for the park for the middle of December. I’d suggest booking your reservations for Torres del Paine at least two months in advance, if not further.

You don’t need to purchase the ferry ticket in advance as this can only be bought in person with cash.

The view of the pristine blue lake during the W Trek in Patagonia

Entrance Fee

Unlike when doing hikes like Laguna de los Tres in El Chalten, there is an entrance fee for Torres del Paine National Park.

You can purchase the entrance tickets here. They are currently $12,000 for a 3-day or more pass.

You must download the QR code before getting on the bus, as there will be no signal once you get to the park.

How Many Days Does it Take to Hike the W Trek in Patagonia?

The days it takes to hike the W Trek in Patagonia will depend on your fitness level and if you want to take your time.

We did this trek in 3 nights and 4 days. This is the shortest time I’d ever suggest, even if you’re a fantastic hiker.

My suggestion would be to do 4 nights and 5 days. This will give you ample time to relax at the beautiful refugios and take it all in without feeling rushed.

w trek patagonia

Camping vs. Refugios

The amazing thing about this trek is that you have multiple options for your sleeping arrangements, depending on your budget.

We rented a tent and slept in the Refugio. On night one, we rented a tent with a mat, and it was honestly more comfortable than I thought it’d be!

For night two, we slept in a dorm room at the Refugio. This wasn’t too bad, but the price was almost triple that of renting a tent the previous night.

We were exhausted and wanted a good night’s sleep. We got that.

For the third night, we slept in another tent but it was large and elevated. I loved these! These were at Chileno Refuge next to Mirador Torres.

The main pros & cons for renting a tent or sleeping in the Refugio are money and if you can’t sleep well in a tent.

I’ll go over the prices of everything next.

How Much Does the W Trek Cost?

Hiking the W Trek in Torres del Paine is expensive. Especially when compared to other places in Patagonia like Bariloche and El Chalten.

But there’s ways to make this experience cheaper like bringing our own food and camping gear.

Overview (per person): Our Costs

  • Accommodation + Gear (3 nights): $345 USD
    • This price includes mats & sleeping pads for both nights we camped.
  • Food: $130
    • This price is mainly from buying dinner on nights 2 & 3. We packed our food for every breakfast and lunch.
  • Tickets (Bus + Ferry + Entrance): 61,000 Chilean Pesos or $62 USD
  • Total Cost Per Person: $537 USD

Food Costs:

  • Paine Grande
    • Breakfast = $25
    • Lunch/Box Lunch = $25
    • Dinner = $40
    • Full Board = $80
  • Cuernos
    • Breakfast = $28
    • Box Lunch = $30
    • Lunch = $50
    • Dinner = $50
    • Full Board (Breakfast/Box Lunch/Dinner) = $100
    • Half Board (Breakfast & Dinner) = $70
  • Chileno
    • Same price as Cuernos because they are the same company.

Campsite/Refugio

  • Paine Grande
    • Campsite (with own equipment) = $13
    • Simple Bed = $65
    • Bed w/ Bedding = $100
  • Cuernos:
    • Premium Campsite w/ Everything = $190 single/$220 double
    • Single Bed = $144
  • Chileno:
    • Premium Tent = $200 single/$288 double
dinner at Cuernos refugio during the w trek in patagonia

Which Direction is the Best for the W Trek?

This is one of the most asked questions about the W Trek in Patagonia. For me, it was quite simple.

I wanted to end this amazing adventure at the best view in the park, Mirador Torres.

Going from East to West might make more sense if you want to explore Lago Grey and do activities such as kayaking and ice trekking.

I personally loved going from West to East, and I’ll tell everyone to do this same route every time.

W Trek Patagonia Map

Credit goes to the Torres del Paine Website. There’s a lot of maps out there if you want something better.

How to Make Campsite/Refugio Bookings in Torres del Paine

I mentioned this earlier, but there are two separate websites you must book your accommodation through before arriving.

If you plan on taking the same route we did and going from West to East, you’ll stay at Paine Grande, Cuernos, and finally, Chileno.

Below are the websites to book each night’s stay.

W Trek vs O-Trek in Patagonia

You will hear many people humbly bragging about completing the O-trek, and as they should. It’s definitely difficult, even compared to the W Trek!

The O-trek is much longer and less commercialized in the upper sections. You create a strong bond with everyone who completes it with you.

We did the W Trek because we were short on time and didn’t have our own gear. This meant the trip would be more expensive than we could budget.

w trek patagonia

Is the W Trek Difficult?

Some might not agree, but the W Trek is difficult. You should only attempt it if you’re in decent hiking shape.

If you’re flying into Santiago first before completing this, there’s a hike called Cerro Manquehue. It’s one of the best views in all of Santiago!

W Trek in Patagonia Hiking Details

  • Distance: This hike is a 45.5-mile point-to-point.
  • Duration: On average, it will take people 4 days to go up and back down. This depends on your fitness level and which route you take.
  • Difficulty: I’d rank this hike as hard because of the amount of time it takes and the elevation gain.
  • Incline: The elevation for this hike is around 9,917 feet or 3022 meters.
  • Hiking Guide: A guide is not needed for this hike and is easily accessible by the public

Best Places to Stay in Puerto Natales

  • Yogan House: This is the hostel we stayed at but it felt more like a really nice B&B. The rooms were amazing and it was by far the best breakfast I’ve ever had in South America.
  • Vinnhaus: If you’re looking for a stunning, centrally located hotel, this is it. There’s nothing bad I can say about this place. It honestly should cost more.
  • Hostal Boutique Factoria Patagonia: Looking for a cabin like experience in Puerto Natales? Then look no further than this spectacular Boutique hotel!

My Experience Hiking the W Trek in Patagonia

Hiking the W Trek was unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. I met new people and made new friends, all while taking in some of the most beautiful scenery in the world. It was priceless.

Day 1

The first day was honestly one of the longest, if not the longest. We started by waking up at 6 a.m. and getting a ride to the bus station.

We took the earliest bus because we knew the day would be long. It was quite relaxing, actually, and most of the people on the bus slept.

Things started getting confusing when we arrived at the entrance two hours later. We were told to switch buses but different people kept telling us different buses.

Eventually, we found the right bus, and we were headed another 30 minutes to Pudeto.

We arrived at the dock, bought a cafe late, and waited for the ferry to arrive. You’ll pay the ferry in cash (25,000 CLP).

Once we arrived at Paine Grande, we unpacked, ate lunch and headed to see Lago Grey! We should have stayed the night here and then hiked in the morning because it was already late and we’ve been moving for quite some time now.

You can stop in different spots; you don’t have to go the entire way.

When we finally returned to Paine Grande, we cooked our dinner and immediately went to sleep.

w trek patagonia

Day 2

The next day was another long one. All of these days were going to be quite long but the first two were the longest.

We woke up, ate breakfast and hit the trail. Our first goal was to reach Mirador Britanico and then end at Cuernos.

The hike up to this mirador is steep and adds on a lot of mileage. I don’t think going all the way to the top is worth it. Instead, you can go halfway where the views are better and go back down. It’s stunning.

There’s a refugio here, and you can leave your bags at the bottom to hike up since you’ll be coming back down.

From here, we headed to Cuernos, where we then enjoyed a nice salmon meal and a couple of beers and relaxed.

Along this trail to Cuernos, you’ll go along a beach with black and white pebbles. It was raining and the feeling was surreal.

mirador frances during the w trek in patagonia
black and white pebble beach in Torres del Paine national park

Day 3

This was the shorter day and I was excited for that. We woke up, ate breakfast, and once again got on the trail early.

The trail was relatively flat for the early section until you met back up with the trail to Chileno from Torres Central.

This part became very steep but once we reached the top, you could see the refugio. We arrived early enough to have a couple beers, take a nap, shower, all before dinner.

After dinner, we washed up and went to bed early because the next day was going to be the best of them all.

Day 4: The Final Day

This was it. This is what we’ve been waiting for. We woke up around 6am, ate a quick breakfast, and got on the trail.

We were actually late to the party as a lot of people who stay at Chileno end up going there for sunrise. I think there was more people there for sunrise then when we arrived around 9am.

The trail was easy at first but became steep and sometimes hard to follow. But once you make it, you’ll know.

I couldn’t stop staring at her. Torres was something from a storytale, and I didn’t want to leave.

We spent around an hour here taking photos and eating snacks before we headed down. As we started to descend, large groups were going up.

After resting at Chileno, we headed back towards Torres Central and the Welcome Center. We bought a shuttle ticket back to the entrance and that was it.

Just like that, it was over.

Mirador Torres Trail during the w trek in patagonia

Final Thoughts

I’ll be back. I told myself I needed to complete the O-trek, and I will. This hike wasn’t only about reaching Torres but everything in between, from making new friends to exploring a totally different part of the world. Patagonia is magical, and everyone should be able to explore this area one day.

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